台北点滴:第三章


来到台北,大家都会理所当然的推荐你前往夜市逛逛。而我们倆在这几天的时间里也逛了不少的夜市,话说我们入住的Airbnb就在饶河夜市的正中央,所以根本不愁没有夜宵吃。去了几个夜市,我最喜欢的应该是宁夏夜市了。那里虽然不算大,但是却有许多好吃的,尤其最喜欢吃那里的火鸡。除了吃,我们在夜市里买了一些土产与手信。当然除了夜市,台北还是有许多商圈与商场可以让你逛个够的,像是西门町,五分埔等,都可以让你买到一些便宜的衣物与用品,又或者是一些比较非主流的品牌。


不过,如果你问我来到台北要逛什么地方,我应该会建议你去逛台北的书店吧。中文书在新马两地并不便宜,毕竟是进口的,运输费与经销商的利润什么的都把价钱一点一点的抬高上来。我是不介意花钱买书来看啦,可悲的是,虽然书卖贵了,但是许多书店里的环境却不怎么理想,有些书店走进去就好像夜市或大卖场那样,根本就没有“书香”的味道。台北的书店就不一样了。在台北最有名的书店,应该就是诚品吧。虽然说现在的诚品已经不只是书店,而是集聚生活品牌的Lifestyle商场,但是每次步入诚品我都能够感受到满满的“诚意”,步入书籍区域更是能够闻到“书香”的气息。


另一间类似的书店就是从日本进军台湾的蔦屋书店了。在台北的这几天,我几乎逛遍了每一家的诚品与蔦屋,当然也买了不少的书本带回去。真的很喜欢这两间书店的感觉,也许应该庆幸在新马两地并没有诚品和蔦屋的书店吧?不然我就会每天到那里流连,然后买书买到倾家荡产吧。

台北点滴:第二章


三月的台北,气候还是偏冷。偶尔的细雨也让台北染上了不一样的色彩。还记得刚抵达台北,气温比预期的还要冷,刚步出机场就冷得开始发抖。裹上了披风,和老婆来到了台北车站,寄放了行李,然后在附近吃了早餐,填饱肚子。灰灰的天空在这周日早上飘起了细雨,这让我想起了光良的那首歌,心里也不禁的哼唱着:“台北下着雨的星期天,你那边现在是几点?”


我们顶着细雨来到了中正纪念堂,目的是要前往参观在那里展出的吉卜力动画手稿展。也因为这样的天气,我们并没有去太多的地方。而雨水断断续续的下到了第二天早上,我们也只好找了家咖啡店,坐在那里喝杯热饮,然后看看书,发发呆,想想一些小事。“要是雨天持续多几天,那我们的行程会变得怎样呢?”心里这样的想着。人生不顺心如意的事多的是,而在旅行时遇上雨天,遇上坏天气,更不是任何人可以控制的。无论你的行程安排得多么完美,无论你怎么查阅天气预报,到最后我们也只是能够听天由命。所以,与其在那里埋怨,倒不如见风使舵,随机应变好了。


忽然觉得这感觉还真熟悉,因为最近我才刚体验了类似的经历。来台湾旅行时,我其实已经提交了离职信,再多一个星期我就会离开已经工作了快六年的公司。为什么要离职呢?嘛,各种各样的原因啦,最重要的是觉得如果继续留下,我并不会学到什么,不会成长。公司里的领导层也无法让我觉得可以继续向往与追随,所以就选择了离开。寻找新工作时也吃了不少苦头,毕竟我过去那八九年的经验都是在同一个行业里,虽然说从工程师转到了业务行销,有了不同的工作体验,但我对其他行业的接触并不多。在深思熟虑后,我决定放手一搏,尝试转换行业与工作岗位。虽然说我有收到同样是业务行销或同一行业的工作机会,但最后我都拒绝了。经过百般周折,庆幸的是我终于找到了一份新工作,不同的行业,不同的职位。结果这趟旅程刚好被安排在这转折点上,正好让我可以卸下旧的包袱,从新开始。

台北点滴:第一章

这已经是去年三月的事了。那时和老婆倆来到台北旅行,虽然说这些旅行随笔是那时候写下的,但是一直以来都没有花时间与精神去整理。现在算是整理好了,所以会陆续更新。都快一年了,不过迟到好过没到吧。在2019年年末时看着,编辑着,也让我回想起当时的心情,也让我缅怀过去,也算是不错的体验。

*    *    *    *    *


明天就得离开台北了。所以怎么说呢,今天算是旅行台北的最后一天吧,毕竟明天哪里都去不了,就只能收拾行李,然后就得赶去机场了。今天的步调也是非常缓慢的,我和老婆倆就这样慢慢的穿梭于台北的大街小巷,下午时分,大家都累了,于是我们便来到了星巴克艋舺门市,找个位子坐下休息。星巴克艋舺门市是由古楼改建而成的,墙上都是红砖瓦,里面都是木造的横梁与楼梯,非常有特色。星巴克总是能够以这种融合当地文化与建筑的构思来装横自己的店面,这一点让我很喜欢。在这里我们静静地坐着,喝着热茶。老婆忙着记录旅行的点滴,而我则戴上耳机,听着五月天的歌,然后写着心情点滴。

其实蛮喜欢旅行台湾的感觉,也许是因为它和日本有许多相似的地方,也许是因为这里也充斥着许多日本的文化影响。总而言之,在台湾游玩时,往往会让我想起旅行日本时的感觉。不过,说实在的,台湾我并没有去过很多的地方。来台湾三次,三次都是在台北渡过大部份的时间。曾经去过台中的几个地方,但是整体上来说我确实还没认真的探索过这座宝岛。这次来到了台北,也算是第一次用自己的步调去感受这座城市。第一次来到台北是和我的二姐一起,大概是2012年吧?对我来说,那趟旅程的目的基本上是为了出席日本天团L’Arc~en~ciel在南港举办的世界巡回演唱会,所以其他行程的安排基本上都让二姐包办。第二次来到台北是2018年,当时只是短暂的逗留了三天,目的是陪伴我的朋友来参加台北同志游行,结果也只是匆匆的来,匆匆的走。而这一次,我和老婆两个人来到这里,希望用自己的步调,慢慢的认识一下台北,体验一下台湾。

Climbing Mount Fuji

During my trip to Japan in early August, I climbed Mount Fuji and managed to reach the peak of the mountain. I do faced some difficulties during my planning, and now I would like to share some information and things that I wished I knew earlier. Please note that for what I shared, it’s based on my personal experience and your milage of course will vary, and information presented is accurate at this point of time.

Basic Information

Mount Fuji is measured at 3,776m tall. Official climbing season usually begins around early July and ends in early September. It is not advisable to climb Mount Fuji outside of the recommended period. You may check the official website for necessary information and latest update on weather, local condition and any emergency alert.

Climbing Route

One of the building located at Subaru Line 5th Station, providing souvenir, gear rental, food, toilet and overnight stay.

There are all together 4 routes to ascend Mount Fuji. The route I took was Yoshida Trail. Hence, my sharing will mainly based on this trail. The other routes are Subashiri Trail, Gotemba Trail and Fujinomiya Trail. Each trail will have different starting point, although they are all being named similarly as “5th Station”. As you climb up the mountain, you will pass by “6th Station”, follow by “7th Station”, “8th Station” and “9th Station” before you reach the peak. Each “Station” is basically an area with amenities, such as small hut for you to stay overnight, shops selling food and necessities and toilet. 5th Station will have better amenities and facilities, as you climb up the mountain, each station facilities will become more and more basic.

The consideration for which route you should take boils down to which starting point is easier to access by you. Also, different route has different level of difficulties and will require different physical abilities. The total time consumed to reach to the top will be different for each route too.

One of the hut located at 6th Station, providing basic needs for climbers.

When is the best time to climb?

The best time to climb is when the weather is fair and dry. Generally, July will still have high chance of rain throughout the day. Best window is somewhere around last week of July to first week of August, where weather should start to turn dry. Do note that typhoon can strike during summer in Japan, and all trail will close under such weather condition. Also, avoid dates around Mountain Day (usually is somewhere around 10 August, will change every year) as a lot of locals will come and climb Mount Fuji (or any other mountain) during that festive period.

In terms of timing, it really depends on what you want to achieve. If you want to witness sunrise at the peak, you can start climbing during the day and stop at one of the station to rest for the night. Then, start climbing again in the midnight in order to reach the summit by dawn. Sunrise timing varies but it should be somewhere around 4:30am to 5am in the summer. For my trip, the hike started at around 11:30am from 5th Station. I ended my day at 8th Station somewhere around 6:30pm in the evening. Had my dinner, took a nap and woke up for the final climb at 1.30am, and reaching the top at 4:30a, just in time for sunrise.

The crowd ascending Mount Fuji in the midnight

Generally, most people will follow the timing above to catch the sunrise. If you want to avoid the crowd, the easiest way is to do the complete opposite of the schedule above. I have read some people will arrive at 5th Station for the night, and start climbing early in the morning, reaching the summit by noon, then descend and arrive back at 5th Station by evening. I personally prefer the “catch sunrise” schedule because you will get to catch a break and rest for a night. So if you do not wish to view the sunrise, just continue your sleep until say 6:00am or 7:00am, then only you start to climb up to the summit.

Also, do note that my timing is most likely only be applicable only if you are staying a night at 8th Station… which is closer to the peak. If you stay a night at 7th Station, you will surely reach your hut earlier, rest earlier, and probably will need to wake up earlier in the night and start climbing to the top.

So, in short, for a normal person, you can expect around 9 hours of climb (include resting time) in total from 5th Station to the summit. As for descending from summit back to 5th Station, you can expect somewhere around 4 hours (include a little resting time). If you are physically fit, of course both timing will be shorter.

How do I get to 5th Station?

Generally, you can reach any of the 5th Station by a combination of train and bus ride, or just by bus. It really depends on where is your starting point, so it is a little hard to tell you the exact way to arrive at 5th Station. For more information, you may refer to here and here.

What should I prepare for the climb?

First off, if you plan to stay overnight in one of the hut, you will need to book with them in advance as it can get pretty crowded during the climbing season. You can check here for some lists of the mountain hut available. Most sites are in Japanese, but a little help from Google translate should get you going. The mountain hut is nothing to shout about. Basically it’s just an open area where people are lying shoulder to shoulder for a night… at least that’s the case for the one I stayed in. Maybe there are other packages and better hut, so you will need to explore a little.

You see the lady in red lying there… along that stretch there will be around 6 person lying just like her for the night…

Next, you will need to prepare a lot of 100 yen coins. Each toilet visit will cost you somewhere around 100 yen to 300 yen, price increases with elevation. As the toilet are not manned, there is no way for you to get change. You just drop the coins into the coin box located outside of the toilet. To be safe, do prepare around 2,000 yen of 100 yen coins at least. On top of that, keep some spare cash (bank notes are okay) for food and souvenir. As a reference, food (such as cup noodle and bread) cost somewhere from 500 yen to 1,500 yen each, so plan accordingly and make sure you have enough cash for it. Credit card or any other card payment methods are not accepted.

In terms of climbing needs, here’s a list of items that you will find useful during your climb. Do note that some items are essentials, while others may or may not be required by you, so your own judgement is required. Do note that whatever you decided to carry, it will be extra weight on your shoulder for the climb.

  • Hiking boots with hiking socks (Must)
  • Hiking stocks (Highly recommended)
  • Headlamp (Must if you plan to climb in the dark)
  • Rain gear (Must, both jacket and pants)
  • Thermal wear (Must, temperature at the peak can drop to 2-6 degrees celcius)
  • Hard helmet (Recommended)
  • Hiking backpack (Highly recommended)
  • Sunglasses and cap (Highly recommended)
  • Sunscreen (Highly recommended)
  • Face mask (Highly recommended, to filter off sand and dust blew off by wind)
  • High energy/calories snack (Must, I brought along 2 energy bars and 6 kit kat chunky)
  • Water (Must, 1.5-2 litre should be sufficient. If not enough, you can purchase along your way although it will be expensive)
  • Oxygen, first aid kit, medication related items (Good to have some basic items)
  • Extra clothing (Good to have, can wear on Day 2 or after get wet from rain)
  • Wet tissues / hand sanitiser (Must, no water along the climb, use them after your toilet break)
  • Extra plastic bag (Highly recommended. Carry a few for storing rubbish, wet stuff etc. You must carry all the rubbish you produced with you as there’s no where to throw)

I think I had covered most, if not all of the stuff. Another concern is probably what to wear along the hike. For me, I start off the hike with: Uniqlo Airism inner wear + Dry-Fit short sleeve T-shirt, compression legging + short cargo pants + Airism underwear, cap + sunglasses. If you can wear a long sleeve quick dry inner shirt will be better as it will block off some sunlight. When getting close to 7th Station, the temperature drops and wind started to picked up. Hence, I added a rain jacket which blocks both wind and water. That keeps me warm until I arrived at 8th Station.

At night, I wear Heattech long sleeve inner wear + Dry-fit short sleeve T-shirt + Uniqlo Ultra light down + rain jacket, compression legging + Uniqlo blocktech fleece lined long pants to keep myself warm. The same clothing was worn for the final ascend as well, adding headlamp + hard helmet + glove. When I descend back to 8th Station from the summit, I changed back to similar clothing as how I started.

Man with the wooden hiking stick bought from 5th Station. This is the long version, there are shorter version which is about 1/3 of the length.

Extra info:

  • You can purchase a wooden hiking stick from 5th Station if you wish. When you visit a hut at any of the station, you can get them to stamp on your wooden stick (with a fee of course) as a memorial that you have visited this place. If you worried that a long wooden stick is troublesome to bring back by flight, you can purchase a shorter version instead.
  • Technically speaking, it is “free” to climb Mount Fuji. But as you leave 5th Station, there will be a conservation centre at the beginning of the trail. They will ask you for a donation of 1,000 yen, in exchange they will provide you with a wooden plate as souvenir. I would encourage you to donate as all fund will channel back into the conservation and maintenance of Mount Fuji.
  • There is a “post office” on top of Mount Fuji, and you can get a special postage mark noting the item was delivered from the top of Mount Fuji. So to save you some trouble, you can prepare a postcard before the climb, bring it with you and just dump it into the postbox when you arrived at the summit.
  • If you really can’t continue anymore (due to emergency situation, fatigue, illness, accident etc.), there’s always a Plan B. Contact the emergency centre / any climbing guide that passes by and get their help to arrange for carriage service. There are horses on standby for situation like this, of course the carriage service is not free. Last I recall it can cost somewhere around 30,000 yen.
Hut owner burning a stamp on the wooden stick.

I do not have all the gears… do you mean I need to buy them all?

Not everyone owns mountain climbing gears. I don’t either, and I did not purchase any new one for this climb. In fact, I rented most of the stuffs from this rental shop. They operate their shops in a few locations, including 5th Station for Yoshida Trail and Fujinomiya Trail, and even at Shinjuku. You can rent almost everything from them, rain gear, thermal wear, hiking shoes, headlamp, hiking stocks, backpack and so on. You can collect the rental items from any locations, and then get them returned at 5th Station after your climb.

Anyone can reach the summit? Like anyone?

To be super honest, I believe it is possible for everyone to reach the top. But that doesn’t mean the climb is going to be easy (but it is not super hard like some other mountain climb either). You will need some physical training for sure prior to the climb. Plan your climb according to your ability and don’t rush. The general rule of thumb is that for every 30 to 40 minutes climb, take a 5 to 10 minutes break. This is not just for you to recover your energy, eat some snack and drink some water, it is also important to let your body to adapt to the elevation and avoid altitude sickness. Pacing yourself accordingly also avoids unnecessary injuries, which is definitely something you don’t want to happen!

Young and old, Man and women, it’s possible to reach the summit if you plan and prepared for it.

Based on my experience, first part of the climb will challenge a lot of your physical strength, while the second part of climb (last stretch to the summit) will challenge a lot on mental strength. There are times when you will question yourself, thinking of giving up. You’ll need to identify whether it’s a signal from “physical” or “mental” tiredness. “Physical” can be cured by a small break, if it’s all “mental”, just continue and push on, you will get over it.

One more point of concern is spending all your energy just to reach the summit. Remember, reaching the summit is only half of the game. You will still need to descend back to 5th Station and home! Therefore, planning is important and make sure there are some energy left in you for the descend. I’ll breakdown to you on a few types of trail surface that you will encountered during your hike:

Type 1: Proper stone laid path. You will encounter this path at the very beginning of your hike for a short distance.

Type 2: Solid dirt and tiny stones. This made up most of your hike up until 8th Station. Pretty easy to hike as long as your shoes are grippy enough. Occasionally can be slippery.

Type 3: Medium sized rocky path. Along your way up until 8th Station, you will encountered such path a few times. Just be careful when you climb the rocks. From 8th Station up to summit, most of the path are of this type.

Type 4: Tiny rocks and loose dirt. I’m not sure about you, but I find this type of path to be the hardest to walk on. It’s slippery when the weather is dry, and it’s uneven, it’s loose so your feet may sunk in at times. During ascend, you will only encounter this type of path sparingly. However, almost 95% of the descend consist of this type of path, which makes the descend extremely painful and tiring.

As you can see, the descend will consist of mostly Type 4 path, which isn’t the easiest to walk on. If you are not in a hurry, do take your time and slowly make the descend to avoid injuring your feet. Also, if the weather is dry, a lot of dust will be airborne when wind blew and when your feet are kicking the dust. It is highly recommended to wear a mask just to filter off the dust while you breath.

Other things to take note

  • Weather on the mountain can change quickly and dramatically. Be prepared for rain, drop in temperature, sunshine, strong wind and misty condition along your way.
  • Always be cautious and give way to faster groups or people who are descending.
  • Congestion may happen. Be patient and wait for your turn.
  • Hard helmet is recommended during the climb from 8th Station to the summit and during your descend. This is to protect your head from falling rocks.
  • When you reach the summit, you can continue to hike around the crater of Mount Fuji, which should took you around 1 to 2 hours, depending on your speed. There are shrine, “post office”, some view points for Fuji Five Lakes and a short trail to the highest peak of Mount Fuji along the way. Otherwise, there are a few hut where you can grab some food and souvenirs. Relax yourself before you start your descend.
  • Before the climb, you will need to fill up a “Climbing Plan” and submit to the postbox at the entry of the hiking trail. You may check with the information centre located at 5th Station for more details.
  • Be aware of where you are heading. Always check on the signboard to ensure you are on the right route as routes may intersect at some locations. This is especially true during your descend. Keep looking for the signboard that leads you back to 5th Station, don’t end up heading in the wrong direction.

Is there an easier way without all the hassle of planning?

Yes! In fact that’s what I did. Because I do not have much confidence in my initial planning and I’m traveling alone, on top of that this was my first time doing a major mountain climbing, hence I decided to play safe and joined a guided tour instead. The one I joined was from Willer Express, but there are many other tours out there for you to choose from. For this tour, basically everyone met up at Shinjuku, a bus took us to 5th Station and a guide will follow the group all the way to the top. However, for descend you can go at your own pace as long as you get back to 5th Station by 11:00am or so. And finally, the bus will pick everyone up and send you back to Shinjuku. There are other tour packages offered by them, such as one that doesn’t include the bus transfer between Shinjuku and 5th Station, so you will need to manage your transport yourself. All in all, you will never run short of options when you are looking for guided tour to climb Mount Fuji.

Is it worth it to climb to the top of Mount Fuji?

Well, it really depends on you. For me, I’m glad that I was blessed with fine weather and an epic sunrise, hence it was worth all the sweat and pain. Without that, I would probably still enjoyed the journey because of my love to Japanese culture. So it really is up to you to weight in and decide if this is the thing you want to get yourself into. Anyway, it’s a hell of experience and journey for me, and I really enjoyed it (except for the descend)! I wonder what’s the next adventure I will embark on?